Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Lost in Translation and Deflation


Atholl's been writing a fantastic business update to his company and I thought I'd share this piece from him more publicly....  

みなさん、こんにちは
お元気ですか?私の家族と私は元気です、ありがとうございました。東京は今のところ風邪を 凍結が、幸いにもほとんど毎日澄んだ青い空を持っています。


I am proud to tell you that my Japanese is progressing well. I will leave it to you to find an online translation tool to translate my opening paragraph to give you a small taste of what it’s like to live in a country where you cannot speak or read the language. You will also see that the online translation tools don’t translate with 100% accuracy which adds to my confusion at times and why it’s easy to misunderstand people whose first language is different to yours.
My Japanese ‘skills’ (that may be a slight exaggeration) are now at the stage where I can get by with the basic necessities of everyday life, like saying: please, thank you, hello and goodbye, counting, asking for directions, asking how much something costs, asking what time a shop opens or closes, saying ‘I have a headache’ and ‘can I park here now without paying’? I am sadly still some way from learning conversation to a business level. 

Reading Japanese is not without its challenges either. There are three alphabets: Hiragana has 51 characters or sounds, Katakana 50 and Kanji only about 10,000! They are all used together and the writing above is a combination of all three. I can read Hiragana, a small amount of Katakana and I’m fluent in Kanji. Yeah, right! Generally, people need to ‘only’ memorise approximately 2,000 Kanji which is taught up to the age of 14 or 15 at schoolLearning a new language at this stage of my life has been one of the most challenging tasks I have ever done, but the sense of satisfaction I get from understanding something new is terrific.


The picture below is one I took last night when Lori and I were going through our mail. We actually had to laugh because as the post piles up we battle to understand what it all means. There are bills for gas, electricity, home phone and internet and a letter from our bank. It is all written in Japanese with minimal English. We cannot make out what period they relate to, if they are indeed electricity or gas (we are guessing) or when they are due for payment. So each month I take my mail to the office and my colleague Sugawara san (my guardian angel who sits next to me), translates a bunch of these so that we can understand them. Lori then takes them to the Post Office or a convenience store like 7-11 where utility bills can be paid. She of course has her Google Translate phone app close to hand when doing that.

We are living in extremely interesting times in Japan at the moment. The country is undergoing a significant political and economic shift. For those of you who aren’t aware, 1989 was the height of the economic bubble here. Since then the economy has endured years of no growth, deflation, subdued stock exchange and property prices, and almost zero percent interest rates. 


Over this period various governments have tried to manage the economy out of this difficult position. In fact, in the last seven years there have been seven different Prime Ministers who have all attempted to work with the central bank, The Bank of Japan to resuscitate the economy. The governments have all increased spending (this strategy has been contrary to the austerity campaigns being implemented in Europe at the moment) and as a result the public infrastructure has been excellently maintained over the years. This continued government spending now means that Japan has a government debt ratio of over 200% to Gross Domestic Product, the largest percentage of any nation in the world and second only to America in dollar terms. A new Prime Minister Mr. Abe was elected in December and interestingly his focus has been to further ramp up government spending to finally return the economy to growth. In addition his intention is to weaken the Yen to revive the struggling export sector and to drive up inflation. Some have called his financial policies ‘Abenomics’ and although early signs have been promising, economists are divided as to the suitability of his tactics. Time will tell...


If you are interested in learning more, there are extensive articles on the internet that provide excellent insight into the history, the economics and the strategy of the past and current governments. I will certainly be watching the outcome over the next few years closely, I have found it enthralling. 

On a lighter note, in January we had our first snow of the winter, apparently it was the heaviest snowfall in Tokyo in over ten years. This is a picture of a park near our home taken by Lori the following day, what a beautiful city this is, amplified when it’s covered in white.


Until next time, 
さようなら

Atholl


PS: if you were having trouble finding a translation tool, this is my opening paragraph: 
Hello everyone. How are you? My family and I are well, thank you. Tokyo is freezing cold at the moment but fortunately has clear blue skies almost every day. 








Tuesday, 12 March 2013

In the snow


During half term we had a fabulous holiday in the stunning, quaint village town Nozawa Onsen. Not only were we really excited at the thought of our first family ski trip in Japan but this was also our first journey on the world renowned Japanese bullet train, the 'Shinkansen'. We took the Nagano Shinkansen line to Nagano - a town famous for hosting the 1998 Winter Olympics 90 minutes from Tokyo station followed by a local train through numerous snowy country villages to Togari Nozawa Onsen. Our luggage was sent in advance (seems to be the popular way of travelling around the country) so there's little hassle using the trains with minimal hand luggage. 

While most of our school friends tend to ski at Hakuba during the winter season, the well known ski resort with strong Australian and international influence including an English speaking ski school, we chose to try Nozawa for its more authentic Japanese experience. Our girls attended ski school in Japanese but fortunately skiing is a sport you can learn by watching and by the end of the week both were confidently moving (& stopping on skies.) 

We stayed in a traditional Japanese hotel called a Ryokan where the whole family sleep together on futon mattresses on a tatami-matted floor. The kids were super excited with these sleeping arrangements. Jonah was rolling around from mattress to mattress screeching with delight. We were given yukata (gowns) to wear around the hotel and experienced the most amazing hospitality from Ko, the owner at Ryokan Kiriya. Ko spoke very good English and we felt like we were staying in her home.

We opted for a western style breakfast in a communal dining room and every night at 6pm we were given a private dining room and served an elaborate 7 or 8 course Japanese meal. Starters were sashimi, omelettes, soybeans, udon and and lots soups (tofu/ miso etc) and then dish after Japanese dish we tried it all. Our favourite was shabbu shabbu where you dip the raw meat into a hot soup with vegetables on a small gas stove on the table to cook it. The kids would run riot and by the end of the meal the dining room was chaos. We wrapped up every meal with green tea, the girls loved that together with dessert (usually another kind of soup!)

The village itself was gorgeous. Spectacular mountain scenery being in the Japanese Alps, with steam rising from the hot waters on the streets and obviously lots and lots of snow. The town Nozawa is well known for its 13 natural onsen which means 'hot springs' in Japanese. This is extremely hot water rich in therapeutic minerals. There were 13 public baths and one in our Ryokan. We soon discovered there's nothing more rewarding than an onsen for an apres ski. Perfect combination! 

On our second day I took the girls to an outdoor onsen next to our Ryokan. The girls kept dipping from the indoor to outdoor bath, and got a kick out of the fact that we could bath outdoors in the snow! We even collected snowballs and cooled our faces down with it.  That night I saw a local Japanese woman bathing her 9 month old baby and that was all the reassurance I needed to know it was ok to take Jonah into 39/40 degree waters.  So every night we took our baby into these amazing therapeutic baths for his night dip - he has never slept so soundly as he did those nights in Nozawa!

Skiing with young kids is not a very relaxing experience. The mission to get everybody dressed (fetching all our ski gear from the drying room in the hotel) took about half an hour. We had a short walk through the snow to the travelator and had to collapse our massive buggy to get up to the slopes (a 7 minute ride) as being a Japanese size travel system it wouldn't fit! Once finally at the slopes we then spent another hour getting ski's, boots, ski passes, childcare sorted for J and getting ready for ski school. Phew....

Ath and I took a few ski lessons but soon realised that even though we hadn't skied for about 7 years it's a bit like riding a bike, so luckily picked up from where we left off. Nozawa has lots of green slopes (the more gentle runs) high up the mountain so we could take the Hikage  gondola for about 20 minutes and then enjoy a variety of runs using the lifts at the top of the mountain. A favourite for me was the forest trail ski path through amazing scenery about 7 kms down the mountain. We used the gondola most days up to the Uenotaira station via the most breathtaking scenery, white forests and snow covered peaks - just one of those sights that no pictures can do justice.

Rach needed a break from ski school in the afternoons, so we'd spend some hours sledding and playing on the doughnuts. They had a kids snow park and the girls enjoyed it. I didn't really get to watch the kids ski, perhaps that was for the best, but on the last day after we were told that Anna had progressed to the 4th level, Ath promised to take her up for a ski. She had little intention of traversing the mountain to control speed or making turns, this kid just flew down the mountain using a snow plough (what her Japanese sensei referred to as 'pizza') she fell a few times but absolutely loved the exhilaration that comes with skiing. 

We figured despite the effort of taking 3 young ones to the snow it was definitely a tick on the bucket list for us, and Nozawa is highly recommended as a brilliant skiing destination in this wonderful country with its incredible scenery, onsen and amazing powder.  Here are some pictures. I have about a thousand more....